![]() ![]() I remember when they first came on the scene down-under………even Honda marine dealers had problems with these let alone just a service and repair "Boat Shop"…………they were totally different to anything an outboard tech was trained in/on or for. I know there is a cheaper route than Honda, I just don't know what it is yet.They are actually very nice and reliable kit. In the meantime, I'm still researching this before I bite off on buying anything for my upcoming coolant chanegout. Don't really have a good answer for that one yet! I wonder if anybody, like CRC, makes an additive to do the same thing as what Honda adds. Worse, if you decide just to use tap water (instead of demineralized water) to cut your coolant 50/50, you may introduce a healthy dose of silicates into the cooling system, among other metals (mostly Ca and Mg). I think the Honda pre-mix has an additional additives package to ensure this. Again, believe it or not, that's not good for corrosion control in any aluminum alloy block. I'm certain Honda uses demineralized water and an additives pkg to keep the pH high.Įven if you cut generic non-silicate antifreeze 50/50 w/ RO water, you end up w/ a sub-9 pH. The only manufacturer who does NOT use 2-EHA, to my knowledge, is Honda they use other types of OA's, but I couldn't tell you the reason why. One thing is for sure, the pH ends up in the 10-11 range until you cut it with water. Many manufacturers of the finished-product antifreeze use 2-EHA (2-ethylhexanoic acid) in sufficient amounts to turn the antifreeze into a buffer solution (weak acids, even in a basic solution, help buffer it). One would think a marine-grade stainless fastener would be corrosion free (it would).the problem is the galvanic loop it would set up with your aluminum alloy engine! An aluminum can it is not!īelieve it or not, stainless steel fasteners in contact with any type of common ethylene glycol coolant circulating in an aluminum engine, no matter which type, is a bad thing. This helps it meet manufacturing and durability needs for a car engine, but worsens its corrosion resistance. That aluminum used to cast our engines actually is somewhat exotic, compared to virgin refined aluminum (from Earth, not Jupiter ).it probably has a little of copper, zinc, silicon, and/or magnesium in it for ease of casting, strength and machine workability purposes. I don't know if anybody leaped into that market to try and outdo the then-current producers, but it's still a niche market with few producers, or maybe just a couple still. when that factory went ablaze in the late 80's, it was tough as nails to try and find lab bath-grade ethylene glycol for a long time. ![]() It's also in much of the generic antifreeze on the market.about 90% of this common vicinal diol w/ a common additives package to make it common antifreeze used to come from one factory in the continental U.S. This is good for a water treatment plant, but not good for our all-aluminum-engined cars.you get pockets of garbage that form a nucleus for corrosion, and this stuff will clog a radiator, especially ones like ours (compare the tiny Honda passages to the ones in a large dual pass radiator like one built for a late-60's Corvette). They flocculate (act to create clumps of contaminants) when in our cooling systems. Just from my background as a chemist, silicates are an awful thing we're stuck with in most drinking water. You have to get the zero-silicate formula. Make sure you get the zero-silicate formula, not the previously ubiquitous generic type.Įven the low-silicate formula is not good for engines that use an O-ring-sealed water pump (ours, and especially BMW which seals the water pump periphery into a machined bore). They made thousands of tons of it, sometimes with near-identical labeling. There's still a lot of conventional antifreeze out there. They made more than one grade of antifreeze, ya know.you didn't mention this important consideration in your first post. Relax, homeslice, I'm just agreeing with you. ![]()
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